Why Organic Eggs?

At the beginning of the year Hugh Fernley Whittingstall and Jamie Oliver put across a pretty convincing case on the merits of free range chicken and eggs. Thanks to their campaign most people seem to understand the benefits of choosing free range. But why should we choose organic eggs?

I usually buy 'Crocker's Organic Eggs' which I get from the farmers market. I used to have a stall next to Gary Crocker at the farmers market in Monkstown. Gary is passionate about his organic farming and is proud that his customers find his eggs to be the best they've tasted. His farm is certified organic by IOGFA and the yokes are a beautiful deep orange colour. Recently I was baking a cake and I discovered that I didn't have enough eggs for the recipe, so I picked up some organic eggs in Tesco. When I broke them into the bowl I was shocked at the difference in colour between the Tesco eggs and Crockers eggs. This got me wondering about what exactly makes an egg organic, what are the rules and how can there be such a difference in quality?

Back in 2005 the London Independent published an article on the validity of organic eggs. It revealed that in order for eggs to be labled organic they merely needed to be fed a diet of 80% organic feed for 6 weeks. Thankfully the standards were soon to be tightened. On the first of January 2006 organic standards in the UK were changed requiring organic chickens to be fed organic food from hatching. 

According to The Organic Trust here in Ireland,  standards require that:

...producers use certified organic grain based feeds that are free from specific additives.

It does seem however that a small amount of non organic feed is permitted with only 80% needing to be sourced from organic raw materials.

But there are more reasons to choose organic eggs than what the chickens are fed on. Buying organic guarantees standards of animal welfare. Whereas battery, barn reared and free range chickens can be subject to the cruel practice of beak clipping or 'debeaking' The Soil Association and The Organic Trust standards prohibit this. Debeaking has become common practice amongst poultry farmers and is practiced in order to stop birds from pecking each other. It is thought that this aggresive behavior is due to bordem and stress. Organic chickens have to have access to the outside and as with many of the organic standards the Soil Association in the UK go far beyond this simple requirement. 

Conventional chickens and free range chickens are generally drip fed antibiotics as part of their feed. This practice is also banned in organic production, it is a misconception that if a Chicken gets ill that it under organic standard it is not allowed to be treated. The organic movements commitment to animal welfare would not sit well with this. If a bird is ill antibiotics and other medications may be administered as prescribed by a vetrenarian. Before a bird that has been treated with drugs is allowed to produce food there is a 'withdrawl period' which should ensure that the drugs have passed through the system and don't make it into our food.

So why the difference in yolk colour? Yolk colour is dependent on the feed that the hen consumes and to some extent on the breed of hen, it is thought that a free range hen has a more varied diet which contributes to the colour. Gary Crocker, as I have mentioned is passionate about his eggs and his farming practices so I would imagine that his hens would have a lot of ground to roam on. The Tesco eggs also had orange yolks, they just weren't as vibrant as Gary's eggs. Maybe the quality of the feed wasn't as good, maybe they were just a different breed or maybe the hens spent less time roaming free.

But beware of judging an egg by it's yolk colour, there are additives in some feeds which when given to the chickens can cause the yolk colour to change, if you want to be sure of a good quality egg, always look for the organic certification.

Further reading: International Journal of Poultry Science